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In most cases this clears itself. The debris gets pushed out as you use the brakes normally. If a scraping noise disappears within a day or two of normal driving, debris is the likely cause. If it doesn't clear, or if it turns into a consistent grinding noise, it's worth getting checked out.

New brake pads bedding in

If you've recently had new brake pads fitted, squealing for the first few hundred kilometres is expected. Brake pads need a bedding-in period where the pad material transfers evenly onto the rotor surface. During this process, some squealing is normal.

Most mechanics will tell you the same thing: drive normally, vary your braking, and avoid emergency stops where possible while the pads settle. The noise should fade as the pads bed in.

Glazed brake pads from light braking

This one is more common than most drivers realise, especially in cities like Sydney where stop-start traffic is relentless, or in hilly areas where drivers tend to ride the brakes on long descents.

Glazing happens when brake pads get overheated, typically from extended light braking rather than hard stops. The surface of the pad hardens and becomes smooth, which reduces friction and causes a high-pitched squeal. It can also reduce braking performance, so it's worth addressing.

A mechanic can often deglaze pads without replacing them, depending on how severe the glazing is. Either way, it's not urgent but it's not a problem to leave indefinitely.

Worn pads with the wear indicator touching the rotor

This is the one that warrants immediate action.

Brake pads have a built-in wear indicator: a small metal tab that is designed to touch the rotor and make a squealing sound when the pad material has worn down to a safe minimum. It's a deliberate warning signal, and it means the pads need replacing soon.

If you hear a persistent squeal on every stop, one that gets louder over time or that doesn't go away with a few stops, worn pads are the likely cause. Left too long, the pad material wears through completely and metal-on-metal contact begins. That produces a grinding noise, and at that point you're looking at rotor damage on top of pad replacement.

The diagnostic is simple: does it squeal only on the first stop of the day, then go away? Probably fine. Does it squeal on every stop, getting worse over time? Book a service.

The quick diagnostic

A few questions that help narrow it down:

• Does the squeal happen only on the first stop after the car has been sitting overnight? Morning moisture: almost certainly fine.
• Did the squeal start right after a pad replacement? Bedding in: expected, will resolve.
• Is the squeal getting louder, or happening on every stop? Wear indicator or glazed pads: get it looked at.
• Is there a grinding sound under the squeal? Metal on metal: book a service today.

Don't assume a used car's brakes are fine

Whether you're buying a used Toyota RAV4, a used Hyundai Tucson, or any other popular model, most buyers never think to check brake condition when looking at a used car, and it rarely comes up in a casual inspection. Brake pad thickness, rotor condition, and brake fluid age are all things that require a proper assessment to evaluate.

At Carma, brake condition is assessed as part of the Carma quality process, and the car's condition is factored into its pricing before it's listed. You can read more about how that process works before you buy.

Squeal now, save later

Brakes are one of those systems where a small problem caught early is a quick, affordable fix. The same problem left too long becomes a rotor replacement job. The good news is your car is already telling you when something needs attention. That squeal is the warning system working as designed.

If you're in the market for a used car with brakes you can trust from day one, browse our used cars at Carma.