
8 common mistakes to avoid when selling your car
The 8 most common mistakes when selling your car privately in Australia — from overpricing to the Notice of Disposal most sellers forget to lodge.


It's one of those things you notice and immediately start second-guessing. The car is shaking at idle, not dramatically, but enough that you can feel it through the seat or the steering wheel. Maybe it happens every time you stop, or maybe it's more noticeable in the morning. The fact that it stops when you start moving again makes it easy to dismiss. Don't. A car that shakes when idling is telling you something specific, and it's usually one of four things. Some are a straightforward service item. One is a reason to book urgently.
Worn or fouled spark plugs are the single most frequent cause of shaking at idle, and they are worth ruling out first. Spark plugs ignite the air-fuel mixture in each cylinder. When a plug is worn, deposits-coated, or simply past its service life, the ignition becomes inconsistent: some cylinders fire cleanly, others misfire. A misfiring cylinder produces uneven power strokes, which creates a rough, shaky idle.
The first sign is often a check engine light alongside the vibration. In a four-cylinder engine, one misfiring cylinder means 25% of the engine's combustion events are wrong, which produces a noticeable and rhythmic shake rather than a random shudder. A used Honda Civic with an overdue plug change is a common presentation, as the four-cylinder petrol engine makes misfire symptoms very clear through the idle.
Spark plug replacement is a routine service item. If you're unsure what a standard car service covers and whether plugs are included, that guide covers what actually gets checked and what doesn't.
Engine mounts are rubber-filled brackets that hold the engine in place and absorb its vibration before it can reach the cabin. A healthy engine produces constant vibration, but you don't feel it, because the mounts are doing their job. When the rubber degrades or a mount breaks, that vibration transfers directly into the chassis and everything attached to it.
The characteristic of mount-related shaking is that it often improves, or disappears entirely, once the car is moving. Under load, the drivetrain manages vibration differently, and what feels like a rough idle at a standstill can smooth out completely at driving speeds. That pattern is a useful diagnostic clue.
Mount wear is more pronounced in heavier cars and at higher kilometres. A used Ford Ranger at high kilometres may develop perceptible idle shake through worn engine or transmission mounts that would be less noticeable in a lighter hatch. This isn't an emergency, but it's also not something to leave indefinitely, because a fully failed mount can allow the engine to shift under hard acceleration and contact other components.

A less obvious but real cause of rough idle is inconsistent fuel delivery. Fuel injectors spray a precise mist of petrol into each cylinder. When injectors are dirty or partially blocked, the spray pattern becomes uneven and the fuel mixture across the engine is inconsistent. The result is an idle that feels rough, lumpy, or variable in intensity.
This isn't usually dramatic in the way a spark plug misfire is. It's more often described as a "lumpy" idle rather than a pronounced shake: the car just doesn't feel smooth the way it used to. Injector-related issues are often accompanied by slightly higher fuel consumption than normal. Our guide to common car maintenance myths covers a few assumptions about injector cleaning and fuel additives that are worth checking before spending money on a product that may not help.
A related cause is a dirty throttle body, the component that controls air intake into the engine. When it's clogged with carbon deposits, the engine management system struggles to hold a steady idle speed, which can cause the revs to hunt up and down and the car to feel unsteady at a standstill.
There is one shaking scenario that isn't a mechanical fault at all. When you switch on the air conditioning, the compressor applies a load on the engine. In a well-tuned car, the engine management system compensates instantly. In an older car with a slightly rough idle, or one where the idle speed adjustment has drifted, that additional compressor load can tip a borderline idle into a noticeable shake.
If your car specifically shakes more with the air conditioning on, and the shake disappears when you switch AC off, the AC compressor load is likely amplifying an underlying issue that was already present. The fix is treating the underlying rough idle rather than the AC itself.
Most shaking at idle is a service item, not a crisis. The exception is when shaking is accompanied by any of the following: a check engine light, a sudden onset (rather than gradual), smoke from the engine bay, unusual smells, or shaking that persists and worsens while driving. Any of those combinations warrants a workshop visit sooner rather than later.
For a used Toyota RAV4 that's been shaking mildly at idle for a few weeks with no other symptoms, the answer is usually a service check and fresh spark plugs. For a car that started shaking suddenly and now won't idle smoothly in any condition, get it seen within the week.
It's worth listening. Rough idle is usually a service item that costs less to fix early than it does after months of ignoring it. If you're looking at a change and want a car that's already been through a proper mechanical check, Carma inspects every car before it's listed, so browse the current range and find one without someone else's deferred maintenance baked in.

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